Primal Sea

23 Jul

Summer in Southern California means beaches are mobbed, parking near the water a nightmare and if one surfs, the danger increases two-fold due to all the fin traffic. So for that reason, plus a bad surf-board scare and pressures in my schedule, I’ve stayed away for a few weeks. But ultimately, I can’t.

I don’t know what it is about the sea. I just know that I need it. Need to be in it. To feel it. Smell it and even taste it. Yesterday, I was so in need of salt water that I said, “F— it!” and jumped in the car. I didn’t bring my board or wax. Just me.

For the first time in a long time, I simply swam in the ocean like I did when I was a little girl. But because of my two years surfing, I wanted to ride the wave. So I imagined I had my board and as each swell came, I got into position with my body. Paddle, paddle, paddle. Ahhhhhhh. I can feel the wave’s motion even as I type. While not as good as the real thing, it’s still a blessing to know the water intimately enough to be able to take a pilgrimage to it in one’s head. All you have to do is close your eyes and there it is – that serenity. That peace. That primal thing that is the sea.

We are made of water. We floated in water as we were formed and our descendants arose out of the water. And Yahweh tamed the waters.

So there it is. I need salt water waves. Whether I’m on a foam board, real board, boogie board or simply riding the thing with my body, I need to be in it. A part of it. That primal sea that I’m starting to think is part me.

One Response to “Primal Sea”

  1. Kevin Brangwynne July 25, 2011 at 8:29 pm #


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